Thursday, 27 October 2011


At the moment I have been working on some trousers designing them and then having a little go at manufacturing them. I had an idea that I wanted a spiral going round one leg and a gathered knee using a striped fabric to relate to unit 8 as I have a trend of prints. I got this idea from drawing on my toile and and then cutting up all the pattern pieces, trace them off and create the new patterns for manufacturing. To identify the design lines I was going to use ruffles but then piping was suggested so I thought it would be a new skill and would look more bold for the seams. I chose a vibrant colour that was in the colour scheme of the fabric to use for the piping but realised I didn't have enough so I had to problem solve and find an alternative. I found piping alright to work with the piping I started with was easier than the other type just because it was on tape that measured 1.5cm seam allowance so I didn't have to measure it out. I also created a waist band and now up tot the stage of hemming but want to do something different so I will do that next time.If I were to create these again I would make sure the piping doesn't cross at the front stopping the piping before it meets and I could have considered flattery to the thighs and used vertical stripes rather than horizontal. Another thing to consider would be following the design lines of the piping down the back leg and maintaining that line through the gathered knee to make it even and fluid.

Saturday, 22 October 2011


Last Monday I attended college so I could deconstruct shirts to create my own silhouettes and shape development on the mannequin. I used collars, cuffs and button stands to layer and create shapes that could either relate to Stella McCartney or any of my trends. I thought this was a good way to see how I could manipulate trousers as the briefs that we are doing at them moment are based on the design of trousers. Wouldn't you try this?


Back to college work - I have been designing for Stella McCartney creating a capsule collection for her label. The other day we had to pitch our brand and how our trends related to the brand identity of the label we were designing for. I used a mood board and my sketchpad and thought I would show you my mood board which had suitable images of her work and how they relate to my trends. I also took inspiration from some ideas I had draped onto the mannequin looking at Elizabethan shapes and silhouettes. What do you think, does it portray the trends I am looking into?


To sum up today: chilled and relaxed. I have danced, visited a university and friend and received a cake and presents off my family. The thing with my cake is that I set my grandma a mini brief to go and make a cake I had designed and it actually turned out better than I expected. I went to Demontfort University and was impressed with the standard off work and politeness off the helpers. To complete my birthday was to have a Chinese for tea which is pretty sad but when you have been travelling all day and haven't had one in a while it fills a hole.

Sunday, 16 October 2011


Yesterday I attended an audition with my dance crew and we had to perform in front of a panel of different dance masters. On the way to another show in the first day we received the news that we have been accepted onto the tour and will be supporting Peridot in their November tour.

Friday, 14 October 2011


I started to design and cut into my toile today creating sections of the trousers in which I will sew together to create my design. I have chosen to use gathering and ruffles making an asymmetric design that is minimal but the fabric will encourage the design to act more effectively. I had to make sure I could manipulate the patterns by gathering and matching the notches up so I knew where they would join. This independent task will allow me to generate ideas for the other brief to design trouser designs and get a better idea of colours schemes and fabric choices.


Now for the harder sample, slashed pocket with welt. This was made of multiple stages that can be confusing if you get them in the wrong order. I found this pocket hard to create but it provided the nicest appearance out of them both as it was more discrete and looked rather professional. I am pleased with this sample as all the stitched lines secured the pocket in the right way not facing many problems along the way. I think if I were to design some trousers I would incorporate this pocket technique as it create a nice effect on the trouser.


As you well know by now our pattern cutting day is a Friday and we have covered yet more technique on pocket creating. I find these tasks very interesting to deconstruct the pockets in stages so I understand how they have been sewn together. So far I have found these tasks alright to get on with focusing on the end product and trying to achieve the best sample I can in preparation for designing my trousers. I found this sample quite simple to follow instructions as it is made up of only a few stages.

Why not have a go?

Thursday, 13 October 2011


The designer I have been given to research into is Stella McCartney. I am pleased with this choice because she links in with my trend prediction of clashing prints so I should find it inspiring to produce designs from. I didn't really have any expectation of what I would have picked but I think it was the right choice for me.



The design principles that I have notice are part of her designs are: repetition(prints); emphasis(embellishment, cut away) and balance using asymmetric shapes to create ambiguity. She combines both elements of masculinity and femininity into her collections using juxtaposition to create both feels and looks for both genders

Friday, 7 October 2011


After completing my tasks for the day I got set the challenge to design and create my own pocket in which this case I got futuristic inspiration and fused both geometric shapes with pleating. Still using the same process in which the patch pocket was made I first of all created my pattern and pleated my fabric by pressing the pleats in. Then I sewed down the pleats to secure them and then stitched around both lining and shell using 1.5cm seam allowance, reduced the bulk and bagged out. This then left a gap so I stitched that to hide the opening and attached the pocket shape to a mounted piece of fabric using a 0.5cm allowance leaving an opening for the pocket. So it shows if you put your mind to a shape you can make it work, why not have a go?


As we were looking at variations of pocket designs were created a self faced patch pocket which was sewn in a completely different way. I preferred this method because it made more sense and was methodical in the way you sewed it together. The way in which I did this was by:
1. Sew 1.5cm seam allowance from opening either side and press the seam open.
2. Fold curved edge of the lining to meet notches on the shell and sew 1.5cm seam allowance around the curve.
3. Bag it all out and press it neatly.
4. Secure the opening gap with a very close stitch to the edge.
5. Sew from the top on one side to meet the other side with roughly 0.5cm and double the stitching by sewing another curved lined inside by another 0.5cm allowance.
A good way of guiding me was using the pronged feet on the sewing machine so if you struggle use them and it will turned out successfully.


Another sample I finished today was a lined patch pocket which was created by cutting out patterns and sewing it all together keeping in mind it would have to be accurate and very neat. The stages I recorded for doing this technique were:
1. Sew 1.5cm seam allowance leaving a gap about 3cm wide.
2. Reduce bulk leaving top free then bag out and press.
3. Top stitch close to the edge of the pocket starting in a triangle.
If you ever need any help her are some images that mig
ht help you out if you ever decide to create your own very lined patch pocket.
I found this technique a good way to start on pockets educating me on the different components that make up a pocket. I feel this turned out well as the stitching was neat and close to the edge and the pocket was neatly displayed and secured on the mounted fabric.


To get us started with Friday activities, we produced a bias binding sample on a curved seam ensuring that the fabric was cut on the bias to allow stretch. The 3 simple steps are:
1. Sew right side to wrong side using 1cm seam allowance.
2. Reduce bulk and turn over fabric to just cover the stitching from seam allowance and press.
3. Top stitch the insecure side close to the edge.
I have tried it on a straight line but it has challenged me to sew in a curved line as the fabric twists and moves so it has helped me with positioning on the sewing machine and given me another alternative to facings. It's quick and easy, why not try it if you can't face a facing!

Wednesday, 5 October 2011


From today I chose a garment that best resembled my era and fashion trend I was looking into. So I picked out a bolero styled garment that had ruffles and layered up my sketch using different angles and views to achieve different effects. I liked how the collage contrasts to the dark pencil and how the smudged effect draws attention the main features of the design. I am pleased with this drawing and continued to add to it taking inspiration from some selected outfits from the costume gallery.


Sorry this is a little bit late but last Friday I had a attempt at creating a seam with a right angled corner in which this took me two attempts because the first attempt was inaccurate. I always found these seams difficult and now I know how to do them properly I can start to introduce them into my work. I am glad I got given the task to do this as I struggle to insert seams that are straight and boxed so I am pleased with the result and how easy it really is. What do you think?


Today we spent the day looking around Platting fields costume gallery and then venturing onto the outside world looking for potential styles and fashion trends. The start of the day was based on sketching from classic collections and displays that related to the contextual studies of Art & Design. I found the best thing was the paper dress taking such a simplistic shape and concept involving sustainability and interpreting it into a design. I don't like drawing but I am proud of what i have produce even if I had to add my own twist to it with a little collage. Overall, the day was beneficial and I think I have encountered some shapes that I can use and introduce into my fashion trend predictions.


Today was our day in Manchester and we spent our time in a gallery and pouncing on innocent people that we liked the style of. I asked about 5 different people that linked in with clashing prints which is one of my chosen trends. I got one No but the rest of my chosen few were up for it. I also got a few sneak peaks of window displays as American Apparel had a mannequin modelling an Elizabethan influenced style and Vivienne Westwood had prints as the priority in the window display. I was really lucky to collect a variety of different prints and it just shows that people are starting to where them on the streets. I must say a thank you to all of the people that took part in this little photo shoot for street style, means a lot.



Which print do you like the best ?