TOILING MY DESERTING DRESS...

I have completed two toiles now and onto the third. I have started to pattern and toile my Deserting Dress which is next on my list of garments I have to make for my final collection. I started off my adapting the dress block pattern by creating two panels as the patterns didn't lie flat when I wanted to add extra flare. Then I traced off the new patterns for front and back and made up the basic shape. I then adjusted where the fabric gaped and amended the original patterns to make it fit the mannequin. The next step was to then draw on the design lines and used notches to show where the next piece fitted. I then sewed all the pieces of the front together and should attempt the back tomorrow.

CHOOSE YOUR DESIGN AND HAVE A GO...

At the moment I have been working on some trousers designing them and then having a little go at manufacturing them. I had an idea that I wanted a spiral going round one leg and a gathered knee using a striped fabric to relate to unit 8 as I have a trend of prints. I got this idea from drawing on my toile and and then cutting up all the pattern pieces, trace them off and create the new patterns for manufacturing. To identify the design lines I was going to use ruffles but then piping was suggested so I thought it would be a new skill and would look more bold for the seams. I chose a vibrant colour that was in the colour scheme of the fabric to use for the piping but realised I didn't have enough so I had to problem solve and find an alternative. I found piping alright to work with the piping I started with was easier than the other type just because it was on tape that measured 1.5cm seam allowance so I didn't have to measure it out. I also created a waist band and now up tot the stage of hemming but want to do something different so I will do that next time.If I were to create these again I would make sure the piping doesn't cross at the front stopping the piping before it meets and I could have considered flattery to the thighs and used vertical stripes rather than horizontal. Another thing to consider would be following the design lines of the piping down the back leg and maintaining that line through the gathered knee to make it even and fluid.

MANIPULATING A TOILE - FIRST PATTERN PIECES...

I started to design and cut into my toile today creating sections of the trousers in which I will sew together to create my design. I have chosen to use gathering and ruffles making an asymmetric design that is minimal but the fabric will encourage the design to act more effectively. I had to make sure I could manipulate the patterns by gathering and matching the notches up so I knew where they would join. This independent task will allow me to generate ideas for the other brief to design trouser designs and get a better idea of colours schemes and fabric choices.

LINING A SELF FACED PATCH POCKET...

As we were looking at variations of pocket designs were created a self faced patch pocket which was sewn in a completely different way. I preferred this method because it made more sense and was methodical in the way you sewed it together. The way in which I did this was by:
1. Sew 1.5cm seam allowance from opening either side and press the seam open.
2. Fold curved edge of the lining to meet notches on the shell and sew 1.5cm seam allowance around the curve.
3. Bag it all out and press it neatly.
4. Secure the opening gap with a very close stitch to the edge.
5. Sew from the top on one side to meet the other side with roughly 0.5cm and double the stitching by sewing another curved lined inside by another 0.5cm allowance.
A good way of guiding me was using the pronged feet on the sewing machine so if you struggle use them and it will turned out successfully.

SEAM WITH A RIGHT ANGLED CORNER...

Sorry this is a little bit late but last Friday I had a attempt at creating a seam with a right angled corner in which this took me two attempts because the first attempt was inaccurate. I always found these seams difficult and now I know how to do them properly I can start to introduce them into my work. I am glad I got given the task to do this as I struggle to insert seams that are straight and boxed so I am pleased with the result and how easy it really is. What do you think?