TOILING MY MOTIONLESS JUMPSUIT( TROUSERS)

Following on from my bodice I had to make the other addition which was a pair of trousers which connected at the waist line. These trousers worked much better than the bodice as the design lines were easier sew together and weren't as fiddly. I found the invisible zip easier than I did in the first year as I sewed it in the side going from the armhole down to the hip line of the trousers joining both garments. I had to measure the waist of the bodice to fit the trousers waist line and amend the patterns. I also samples bias binding on the arm hole and then I will hem the bottom of the trouser leg by 1cm. To problem solve the shoulder as it was to small to fit over the mannequin so we had to adapt the jumpsuit to make it easy to get into. I added some poppers into the right shoulder seam and sampled hand stitch and machine and preferred the machine stitch as it secures the popper tape down the best. The bodice will be much better for the real garment as I have sampled the bodice twice to get the corners right so hopefully the jumpsuit should go to plan.

MY CHOSEN COLLECTION...

I have now reached the decision of what I want to include within my final collection. This collection will be made up of: a jacket,1 dress, 2 tops, 2 pairs of trousers, 1 coat and a shift dress. After designing 50 different outfits it has allowed me to explore different ideas and now I feel confident with constructing the chosen few.

I hope all goes to plan and I can construct them all in time for the fashion show.

Which is your favourite?

INDEPENDENT TROUSERS...

As you might have seen, I designed and manufactured my own trousers using striped fabric and piping to accentuate the seam lines. I enjoyed this process as I learnt another method of pattern cutting - deconstructing a Toile. I feel the darker photography works better than a light grey or white as it relates to my ideas and concepts and way I see things. I could definitely use these in my portfolio to demonstrate the complexity of pattern cutting.

SPEC DRAWINGS SO FAR..

I have recently become addicted to spec drawings so I have started to try and create most of the spec tutorial basics. I have found this process quite interesting learning how to insert new features and fabric choices and advance my skills by creating my own designs. I still have a few more to go but will the ones I have completed I am quite impressed by how I have improved over a couple of weeks.

PUTTING MY WAIST BAND ON MY 70S STYLED TROUSERS...

After completing the construction of my stripey trousers it was time for the waist band to finally go on the trousers. I thought I would insert piping into the top layer of it to maintain the theme of highlighting seam lines and it surprisingly worked effectively. I then had to hand sew a hook and eye onto the opening of the trousers and hem the trouser legs making sure they were level. Now I can safely say I have completed my own trousers that I have designed myself!
They are now ready to be photographed.

CHOOSE YOUR DESIGN AND HAVE A GO...

At the moment I have been working on some trousers designing them and then having a little go at manufacturing them. I had an idea that I wanted a spiral going round one leg and a gathered knee using a striped fabric to relate to unit 8 as I have a trend of prints. I got this idea from drawing on my toile and and then cutting up all the pattern pieces, trace them off and create the new patterns for manufacturing. To identify the design lines I was going to use ruffles but then piping was suggested so I thought it would be a new skill and would look more bold for the seams. I chose a vibrant colour that was in the colour scheme of the fabric to use for the piping but realised I didn't have enough so I had to problem solve and find an alternative. I found piping alright to work with the piping I started with was easier than the other type just because it was on tape that measured 1.5cm seam allowance so I didn't have to measure it out. I also created a waist band and now up tot the stage of hemming but want to do something different so I will do that next time.If I were to create these again I would make sure the piping doesn't cross at the front stopping the piping before it meets and I could have considered flattery to the thighs and used vertical stripes rather than horizontal. Another thing to consider would be following the design lines of the piping down the back leg and maintaining that line through the gathered knee to make it even and fluid.

MANIPULATING A TOILE - FIRST PATTERN PIECES...

I started to design and cut into my toile today creating sections of the trousers in which I will sew together to create my design. I have chosen to use gathering and ruffles making an asymmetric design that is minimal but the fabric will encourage the design to act more effectively. I had to make sure I could manipulate the patterns by gathering and matching the notches up so I knew where they would join. This independent task will allow me to generate ideas for the other brief to design trouser designs and get a better idea of colours schemes and fabric choices.