TOILING MY DESERTING DRESS...

I have completed two toiles now and onto the third. I have started to pattern and toile my Deserting Dress which is next on my list of garments I have to make for my final collection. I started off my adapting the dress block pattern by creating two panels as the patterns didn't lie flat when I wanted to add extra flare. Then I traced off the new patterns for front and back and made up the basic shape. I then adjusted where the fabric gaped and amended the original patterns to make it fit the mannequin. The next step was to then draw on the design lines and used notches to show where the next piece fitted. I then sewed all the pieces of the front together and should attempt the back tomorrow.

STARTING MY SHIFT DRESS TOILE...

For the past couple of days I have been starting my shift dress. It was very simple as I had to add flare to the basic dress block, sew the darts and press all seams open. I still need to attach the neck and arm facings and then hand sew the circular shapes onto the centre front and then it is another toile.

CREATING MY PATTERNS FROM THE MADE UP KIMONO BLOCK...

As you might have already noticed that I have been adapting a kimono block to create my own design of a coat. After making up this kimono block I then began to draw on the design lines and slashed up these to give me the flat patterns I wanted. I then traced off the pieces and added 1cm seam allowance as the design lines are close together. I then began to create my jigsaw puzzle and piece all the notches and pattern pieces together which gave me a couple of problems, which only made me realise, that I had to do it in a different order. I have finally got up to the stage where I can pattern the lining and sew on the elbow patches and then my first toile will be complete.

STARTING MY PATTERNING PROCESS FOR COAT...

The first task for creating my coat was to create a block for a flat kimono and then had to adapt the patterns to provide the shape and structure. The next step was to then manufacture the basic flat kimono for me to then apply the design lines of my design to it. This is similar to a pattern cutting skill I discovered a couple of months ago which I will use to create this coat toile.